Ultimately today was about meeting some orphans who live on the side of the Mount of Olives and in particular a boy named Mustapha. Our visit to the orphanage came after lunch, but it was a fun time and I found myself wanting to stay and play basketball with the boys. They asked me to come again! I will need some new magic tricks next time!
Our day began in the city of David where we saw layers of history on the southern wall of the temple. We then visited the house of Caiaphas and its beautiful chapel. We descended to the jail beneath the house where Jesus might have been kept. The PIT was deep and dark. As we considered Peter’s betrayal we actually heard a rooster crowing….it was a moving time in a place with a beautiful view to the Dome of the Rock. We made a quick stop by the graveyard where Oscar Schindler is buried on our way to Ein Karem (which means Spring of Vineyard). Here we saw the birth place of John the Baptist in a chapel which was restored by Queen Isabella of Spain….beautiful blue and white tiles. The words of the Song of Zechariah were on the walls and took on new meaning.
Our journey continued to the Shrine of the Book where we saw the Dead Sea Scrolls. This amazing discovery has changed the way people have read scriptures forever. I was pleased to find a photograph from Duke Chapel when the scrolls made a US tour in the 50′s. The Shrine reminded me of the saucer from the movie “when the earth stood still”. It was here that we also got to see the amazing model of Jerusalem at the time of the temple, just before its destruction. I have inserted a photo of this amazing model in my blog. It is vast, and was very wonderful in bringing together much of what we had learned in the previous day.
We enjoyed lunch at St. Andrew’s, which was a little piece of Scotland…and in fact Robert the Bruce’s last request was that his heart would be buried in Jerusalem, and there is a stone (right next to our bus parking spot) marking the resting place of his heart. The Scottish members of our tour seemed to enjoy this stop and some of them are planning to go back to church this Sunday. The food was amazing and the chef’s explanation of the deserts was wonderful….so many good sweet things.
We then made the long drive to visit the house of Mary & Martha, also the place where Lazarus was raised from the dead by Jesus. We saw our first camel on the side of the road as we took this 40 minute drive….the new wall in Israel has made what would have been a ten minute drive a fifty minute drive….lot of time to think about Jerusalem politics. It was also our first glimpse at the Jordanian mountains and the desert. I loved hearing about Lazarus and how he went on to live and share the story of his miracle….and the connection to Cyprus, where he is patron saint.
Our day began to wind down as we visited an orphanage. There are 90 boys living there and I had such fun playing with them. It is easy to get caught up in the sites of this place and forget about the people, especially vulnerable people, affected by the changes and lack of peace which is here.
Our last stop was the most Holy site for all Jews, the Western or Wailing Wall. It is the beginning of the Sabbath and everyone was arriving. The crowds pressed and I managed to get to the wall for a prayer. The singing and joy was both exhilarating and disturbing, as I am very aware of the effects of Nationalism. As I walked toward the Wall a faithful Jew was in front of me wearing a Pittsburgh Steelers jacket. It was so funny to see, especially considering that they did not make the playoffs this year, and it helped me to remain grounded in such an emotive place. We left the wall and walked through the city to the Damascus gate, passing man Jews rushing to worship and many armed military guards making sure that all was well. The word TENSION is the right word for the feeling….and considering the political realities of Jerusalem, one cannot help but be drawn in a bit.
After another lovely meal at the Golden Walls Hotel, we were so blessed to have one of the Canons from St. George’s Cathedral to speak to us about his ministry here. I was pleased to know of his study in Virginia Seminary and his friendship with a friend of mine in Northern Virginia….the church world is so small. What a faithful servant this priest is….I am excited to be able to worship at the Cathedral this weekend.
Another great day of walking and thinking and imagining in the Holy Land. The historical aspects of this adventure are truly educational. I particularly enjoyed seeing the final movements of Jesus demonstrated on the large model….how he was taken to Pilot, and the Caiaphas, and how he arrived to the Temple…the route he walked, and the locations of so many Biblical stories….just wonderful.
Growing up we hear words spoken and read to us in and around the church. We are never given a context for our faith and the stories of the Bible become fairy tells and magic dust. It is wonderful to feel the dirt and rub the stones of the 1st century. It is good to imagine what religious harmony actually looks like, and more than that, to imagine what God makes of all of this. My guess is, of all the things I saw today, all of the wonderful things, he would want me to remember Mustapha and his smile today. For life is the most precious thing we have. Thank you for your prayers as I journey on to Bethlehem tomorrow.